Complete Hanoi Travel Guide: Old Quarter, Street Food and Temple of Literature

Why Visit Hanoi

Hanoi is a city of lakes, tree-lined boulevards and centuries-old temples wrapped in the organised chaos of motorbike traffic. Vietnam's capital has preserved its French colonial architecture and ancient Vietnamese heritage while evolving into a dynamic modern city. The street food alone is worth the trip.

Best Time to Visit

• Autumn (October–November): Best time. 20–28°C, low humidity, clear skies.
• Spring (March–April): Pleasant. 20–25°C, occasional drizzle, flowers in bloom.
• Summer (May–September): Hot and humid (30–38°C). Heavy monsoon rains, especially July–August.
• Winter (December–February): Cool and grey. 10–18°C with persistent drizzle. Hanoi is one of the few places in Southeast Asia where you need a jacket.

Top Attractions

Historic Sites

• Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum: The preserved body of Vietnam's founding father. Free entry. Open Tuesday–Thursday and Saturday–Sunday, 07:30–10:30. Closed October–November for maintenance. Strict dress code (no shorts, sleeveless tops). Long queues.
• Temple of Literature (Van Mieu): Vietnam's first university, founded in 1070. VND 30,000 (~£1). Beautiful traditional architecture and peaceful gardens.
• Hoa Lo Prison (Hanoi Hilton): French colonial-era prison later used during the Vietnam War. VND 30,000. A sobering and important historical visit.
• Hoan Kiem Lake: The spiritual heart of Hanoi. Ngoc Son Temple on the lake island costs VND 30,000. Walk around the lake at dawn for tai chi scenes and local life.

Old Quarter

• 36 Streets: Each street historically specialised in one trade (silk, silver, paper). Wander Hang Gai (silk), Hang Bac (silver) and Hang Ma (paper goods and decorations).
• Weekend Night Market: Friday–Sunday evenings on Hang Dao Street. Street food, cheap clothes, live music. The surrounding streets close to traffic.
• St. Joseph's Cathedral: French Gothic cathedral built in 1886, modelled after Notre-Dame. Free. The surrounding streets have excellent egg coffee cafes.

Neighbourhoods

• French Quarter: Wide boulevards, the Opera House, luxury hotels and fine dining around Trang Tien Street.
• West Lake (Tay Ho): Expat area with lakeside restaurants, Tran Quoc Pagoda (Vietnam's oldest, dating from the 6th century) and a more relaxed vibe.
• Ba Dinh: Government district with the Ho Chi Minh complex, One Pillar Pagoda and the Presidential Palace.

Getting Around

• Grab (ride-hail): The best way to get around. Motorbike rides VND 15,000–30,000 (£0.50–1), car rides VND 40,000–80,000 (£1.30–2.60) for most city trips.
• City Bus: Extensive network. VND 7,000–9,000 per ride (~£0.25). Routes 86 and 17 useful for tourists.
• Walking: The Old Quarter is best explored on foot but chaotic. Cross roads slowly and steadily; traffic flows around you.

From Noi Bai Airport (HAN) to Old Quarter (30 km):

• Bus 86: VND 45,000 (~£1.50), 50–60 minutes to the Old Quarter. Runs 06:25–22:55.
• Grab/Taxi: VND 350,000–450,000 (£11–15). 40–60 minutes depending on traffic.
• Minibus shuttle: VND 60,000–80,000, shared van to Old Quarter hotels.

Vietnamese Street Food in Hanoi

• Pho: Vietnam's famous noodle soup. Beef (pho bo) or chicken (pho ga). VND 40,000–60,000 (£1.30–2). Pho Thin at 13 Lo Duc (since 1979) or Pho Gia Truyen at 49 Bat Dan.
• Bun Cha: Grilled pork patties with rice noodles and dipping broth. VND 40,000–60,000. Bun Cha Huong Lien at 24 Le Van Huu (the "Obama bun cha" spot) or Bun Cha Dac Kim at 1 Hang Manh.
• Egg Coffee (Ca Phe Trung): Whipped egg yolk with Vietnamese coffee. VND 25,000–35,000. Cafe Giang at 39 Nguyen Huu Huan invented it in 1946.
• Banh Mi: Crispy baguette with pate, pork, pickled vegetables and herbs. VND 20,000–30,000 (£0.65–1). Banh Mi 25 on Hang Ca Street.
• Bun Bo Nam Bo: Dry noodles with beef, herbs, peanuts and a tangy dressing. VND 45,000–60,000. The original stall at 67 Hang Dieu.
• Bia Hoi: Fresh draught beer brewed daily, served on tiny pavement stools. VND 5,000–10,000 per glass (~£0.15–0.30). Bia Hoi Corner at the junction of Ta Hien and Luong Ngoc Quyen.

Practical Tips

• Visa: UK, EU and US citizens need an e-visa (US$25, single entry, 30 days) or visa on arrival. Apply for the e-visa online at least 3 working days before travel.
• Currency: Vietnamese Dong (VND). £1 ≈ VND 31,000. Cash is king for street food; credit cards accepted at hotels and restaurants.
• Tipping: Not expected but appreciated. Rounding up or VND 20,000–50,000 for good service at restaurants.
• Crossing roads: Walk at a steady, predictable pace. Do not stop, run or make sudden movements. Traffic will flow around you.
• Haggling: Expected at markets and with street vendors. Start at 40–50% of the asking price.
• SIM card: Buy at the airport. Viettel or Mobifone SIM with data costs VND 100,000–200,000 for 30 days.