Why Visit Cusco
Cusco was the capital of the Inca Empire, the largest empire in pre-Columbian America. Today, this Andean city at 3,400 metres above sea level is one of South America's most captivating destinations β a living museum where Inca stone walls form the foundations of colonial churches, where indigenous Quechua culture thrives alongside Spanish colonial heritage, and where the gateway to Machu Picchu draws travellers from around the world.
But Cusco is far more than just a jumping-off point for Machu Picchu. The city itself is extraordinary. The Plaza de Armas is framed by stunning baroque churches and arcaded restaurants. The neighbourhood of San Blas β the artisan quarter β climbs steeply up the hillside with narrow streets, independent studios and panoramic views. The Sacred Valley, just an hour away, is dotted with Inca ruins, traditional markets and adventure activities.
Cusco is also remarkably affordable. A full three-course menu del dia (lunch set menu) costs PEN 8β15 (β¬2β4), a night in a comfortable hotel is β¬25β50, and even Machu Picchu β while not cheap β can be done on a reasonable budget with some planning.
Top Neighbourhoods
Plaza de Armas β The Heart of Cusco
The main square, surrounded by the Cathedral, the Jesuit church of La Compania, restaurants and shops. Beautiful at night when the buildings are illuminated. Tourist-oriented prices but undeniably stunning.
- Daily budget: β¬40β80
San Blas β The Artisan Quarter
Cusco's most charming neighbourhood. Steep cobblestone streets, whitewashed houses, ceramic workshops, the oldest parish church in Cusco and incredible city views. Small boutique hotels and cosy cafes. The walk up is tough at altitude.
- Daily budget: β¬30β60
San Pedro β Market Life
Centred around the Mercado de San Pedro, the city's main food market. Fresh juices for PEN 3 (β¬0.75), enormous plates of food for PEN 8β12 (β¬2β3), exotic fruits and local specialities. The surrounding streets have budget hotels and authentic restaurants.
- Daily budget: β¬20β40
San Cristobal β The Viewpoint
Higher up the hill, this neighbourhood centres around the church and mirador (viewpoint) of San Cristobal. One of the best panoramic views of the entire city, especially at sunset. Quieter and more residential than the centre.
- Daily budget: β¬25β45
Sacred Valley β Day Trips
While technically outside Cusco, the Sacred Valley is where many visitors spend their days. Pisac (famous market, Inca terraces), Ollantaytambo (impressive fortress, train to Machu Picchu) and Moray (circular Inca terraces) are all within 1β2 hours.
- Daily budget: β¬30β60
Local Cuisine
Peruvian cuisine is celebrated worldwide, and Cusco's highland food has its own distinct character rooted in Inca tradition and Andean ingredients.
-
Cuy (Guinea Pig): The iconic Andean dish. Whole roasted guinea pig, crispy skin and tender meat. It's a genuine delicacy and a must-try for adventurous eaters. PEN 60β90 (β¬15β22) at restaurants. Cusco's most famous spot is Pachapapa in San Blas, where they roast cuy in a traditional clay oven (PEN 75 / β¬18).
-
Lomo Saltado: Peru's most popular dish β stir-fried beef strips with onions, tomatoes, soy sauce and chilli, served with fries and rice. A Chinese-Peruvian fusion that's been a staple for over a century. PEN 18β30 (β¬4.50β7.50) at local restaurants.
-
Alpaca Steak: Lean, tender red meat similar to beef but with less fat. Alpaca is farmed sustainably in the Andes. A grilled alpaca steak at Chicha (Gaston Acurio's Cusco restaurant) costs PEN 55β70 (β¬14β17). Chez Maggy on Procuradores street is a more budget-friendly option (PEN 35 / β¬8.50).
-
Ceviche: Fresh raw fish cured in lime juice with chilli, red onion and coriander. While Lima is the ceviche capital, Cusco's versions use freshwater trout from Andean lakes. PEN 25β40 (β¬6β10).
-
Chiriuchu: A traditional ceremonial dish served cold. A plate with cuy, chicken, dried meat (charqui), corn, cheese, seaweed, fish eggs and rocoto pepper. Served during Corpus Christi (June) but available year-round at some traditional restaurants. PEN 40β60 (β¬10β15).
-
Sopa de Quinoa: Hearty quinoa soup with vegetables and sometimes chicken. Warming, nutritious and perfect for the cold Andean evenings. PEN 8β15 (β¬2β4) at market stalls and local restaurants.
-
Tamales Cusquenos: Larger and spicier than coastal tamales, stuffed with seasoned pork, egg, olives and aji pepper, wrapped in banana leaves. PEN 5β8 (β¬1.25β2) at markets and street vendors, best in the morning.
-
Pisco Sour: Peru's national cocktail β pisco (grape brandy), lime juice, egg white, syrup and Angostura bitters. PEN 18β30 (β¬4.50β7.50) at bars. Museo del Pisco on Santa Catalina Ancha street does an excellent one and offers tasting flights (PEN 45 / β¬11).
Warning
Budget Breakdown
| Category | Backpacker | Mid-Range | Comfort | |----------|-----------|-----------|---------| | Accommodation (per night) | β¬5β15 (hostel dorm) | β¬25β50 (hotel) | β¬80β200 (boutique hotel) | | Food (per day) | β¬5β10 | β¬15β30 | β¬35β70 | | Transport (daily) | β¬1β3 | β¬5β10 | β¬15β25 (taxis) | | Attractions (daily) | β¬0β8 | β¬15β30 | β¬30β60 | | Daily Total | β¬12β35 | β¬60β120 | β¬160β355 |
Getting Around
Within Cusco
The historic centre is compact and walkable, though the hills and altitude make every walk feel longer. Taxis within the centre cost PEN 5β8 (β¬1.25β2) β always agree on the price before getting in as taxis don't use meters. Uber and InDriver work in Cusco.
Colectivos (Shared Minibuses)
Local minibuses run set routes throughout the city for PEN 1β1.50 (β¬0.25β0.40). They're marked with their destinations on the windshield. Wave them down like a taxi. An authentic local experience.
From Alejandro Velasco Astete Airport (CUZ)
- Taxi: PEN 15β25 (β¬3.75β6.25) to the city centre (10β15 minutes). Use the official taxi desk inside the terminal or book through your hotel.
- Uber: PEN 8β15 (β¬2β3.75)
- There is no public bus from the airport to the centre.
To the Sacred Valley
- Colectivo to Pisac: PEN 5 (β¬1.25), 1 hour, from Calle Puputi
- Colectivo to Ollantaytambo: PEN 10 (β¬2.50), 2 hours, from Calle Pavitos
- Tourist buses: PEN 20β30 (β¬5β7.50) with guided stops. Convenient but less authentic.
- Private tour: PEN 120β200 (β¬30β50) per person for a full-day Sacred Valley tour
To Machu Picchu
- PeruRail/IncaRail from Ollantaytambo: From USD 60 (β¬55) one-way to Aguas Calientes (1.5 hours). The Vistadome class (panoramic windows) costs USD 90+ (β¬82+).
- Budget option: Colectivo to Hidroelectrica (PEN 25 / β¬6.25, 6 hours), then walk 2.5 hours along the railway tracks to Aguas Calientes. Scenic but long.
- Inca Trail: 4-day trek. Must be booked months in advance through a licensed operator. Costs USD 600β800 (β¬550β730) per person including permits, guides, porters and camping.
Tip
Practical Tips
-
Book Machu Picchu well in advance. Since 2024, entry is limited to approximately 4,500 visitors per day across different circuits. Tickets often sell out weeks ahead, especially for the classic Circuit 1 and 2. Book through the official website (machupicchu.gob.pe) with your passport number. Entry is USD 52 (β¬47) for foreigners.
-
Coca tea is your friend. Mate de coca is served everywhere and genuinely helps with altitude symptoms. It's a mild stimulant (less than coffee) and perfectly legal in Peru. Hotels, restaurants and even the airport serve it for free. Don't try to take coca leaves home β they're illegal in most countries.
-
Watch out for tourist pricing. Restaurants around Plaza de Armas charge 2β3x more than places a few blocks away. For cheap, authentic food, head to Mercado de San Pedro or the smaller Mercado de Wanchaq. A full lunch at either market costs PEN 8β12 (β¬2β3).
-
Learn some Quechua. While Spanish is the primary language, many locals speak Quechua (the Inca language) as their first language. "Napaykullayki" (hello) and "Sulpayki" (thank you) will earn you genuine smiles.
-
Rain season is November to March. Expect afternoon downpours, muddy trails and occasional Machu Picchu closures. The Inca Trail is closed for maintenance every February. The best weather is May to September (dry season), though nights can drop below 0 C.
-
Carry small bills and coins. Many small shops, taxis and market vendors can't break PEN 50 or PEN 100 notes. Withdraw cash in smaller denominations from ATMs. BCP and Interbank ATMs are the most reliable.
-
Cusco's nightlife centres on Procuradores street, known locally as "Calle Gringa." Bars offer happy-hour piscos and cheap cocktails from PEN 10 (β¬2.50). Mythology and Mama Africa are the busiest clubs. Most places don't charge entry.