Why Visit Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires is the most European capital in South America, but with an unmistakably Argentine character. Tango, asado, football, historic cafes and neighbourhoods with their own personalities make the "Paris of South America" a fascinating and surprisingly affordable destination for European visitors.
Best Time to Visit
- Spring (September–November): Ideal. 18–25°C, jacaranda trees bloom in November (spectacular).
- Autumn (March–May): Another great time. 15–25°C, autumn colours in the parks.
- Summer (December–February): Hot and humid (28–35°C). Many porteños head off on holiday.
- Winter (June–August): Cool (8–16°C). Fewer tourists, lower prices. Peak tango season.
Tip
Top Neighbourhoods
San Telmo
The oldest neighbourhood. Cobblestone streets, antique shops, tango bars and the famous Mercado de San Telmo (parrilla, empanadas, dulce de leche). On Sundays, the Feria de San Telmo fills Calle Defensa with artisans and musicians.
La Boca
Home to Caminito, the colourful street that's the most photographed in Argentina. Also home to Boca Juniors' stadium, La Bombonera. Visit during the day and don't stray from the tourist zone.
Warning
Palermo
The largest and trendiest neighbourhood, divided into sub-barrios:
- Palermo Soho: Design shops, street art, speciality coffee, chef-driven restaurants.
- Palermo Hollywood: TV production companies, cocktail bars, trendy restaurants.
- Bosques de Palermo: Huge park with lakes, rose garden and Japanese Garden (600 ARS / £0.30).
Recoleta
The most elegant neighbourhood. Recoleta Cemetery houses Eva Peron's tomb amongst stunning mausoleums (free entry). Also the National Museum of Fine Arts (free) and the Pilar church.
Puerto Madero
The most modern area. Old docks converted into restaurants and lofts. Calatrava's Puente de la Mujer bridge and the Ecological Reserve (free, ideal for walks or runs).
Tango in Buenos Aires
Tango was born in the working-class neighbourhoods of Buenos Aires in the late 19th century. It's now a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage.
Where to See Tango
- Milongas (popular dance halls): La Catedral (San Telmo), La Viruta (Palermo). Entry: 2,000–5,000 ARS (£1–£2.50). The most authentic experience.
- Tango shows: Cafe de los Angelitos, Tango Porteno, Esquina Carlos Gardel. From 15,000–40,000 ARS (£7.50–£20) with dinner.
- Street tango: In San Telmo on Sundays during the fair. Free.
Info
Argentine Cuisine
Asado
The most Argentine ritual. Beef slowly cooked over the grill. The best parrillas:
- Don Julio (Palermo): One of the best in the world. Book weeks ahead. Bife de chorizo from 25,000 ARS (£12.50).
- La Brigada (San Telmo): They cut the meat with a spoon to prove its tenderness. From 18,000 ARS (£9).
- El Desnivel (San Telmo): More affordable and generous. Parrilla menu from 12,000 ARS (£6).
Other Essentials
- Empanadas: Filled with beef, ham & cheese, humita... 1,000–2,000 ARS (£0.50–£1) each.
- Milanesa napolitana: Breaded veal with tomato sauce, ham and melted cheese. 10,000–18,000 ARS (£5–£9).
- Choripan: Chorizo in crusty bread with chimichurri. 3,000–5,000 ARS (£1.50–£2.50). Best from the carts at Costanera Sur.
- Portena pizza: Thicker than Italian, loaded with cheese. Fugazzeta (onion and mozzarella) at Guerrin or El Cuartito. 5,000–9,000 ARS (£2.50–£4.50).
- Dulce de leche: In ice cream, pastries (facturas), alfajores. Essential. Ice cream shops like Rapanui or Freddo.
- Mate: The national infusion. You'll see porteños everywhere with their thermos and mate gourd.
Hotels in Buenos Aires
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Getting Around
SUBE Card
Essential for public transport. Buy at kiosks and stations for 5,000 ARS (£2.50) and top up. Works on the subte (metro), colectivos (buses) and trains.
Subte (Metro)
6 lines. Runs 5:00–23:00 (Saturdays until midnight). Journey: 650 ARS (£0.32). Incredibly cheap.
Colectivos (Buses)
Over 100 lines. Run 24/7. Same price as the subte. Use the "Como llego" app for routes.
From the Airport
- Ezeiza (EZE): 35 km from the centre. Tienda Leon bus: 15,000 ARS (£7.50), 60–90 min to centre. Taxi/remis: 40,000–60,000 ARS (£20–£30). Private transfer recommended at night.
- Aeroparque (AEP): 5 km from the centre. Taxi: 10,000–15,000 ARS (£5–£7.50), 15 min.
Practical Tips
- Visa: UK citizens don't need a visa for stays up to 90 days.
- Currency: Argentine Peso (ARS). £1 is approximately 2,000 ARS (March 2026). Inflation remains high — check the exchange rate before travelling.
- Paying: In 2026, the blue dollar rate barely differs from the official/MEP rate. Paying by Visa/Mastercard automatically applies the MEP rate (~1,460 ARS/USD), similar to the blue rate. It's no longer essential to bring lots of cash, but having some dollars or pounds in cash is still useful for small expenses.
- Tipping: 10% in restaurants if service isn't included.
- Safety: Normal big-city precautions. Avoid displaying expensive electronics on the street. Don't walk through dark areas at night.
- Dining hours: Argentines eat dinner at 21:00–22:00. Restaurants don't fill up before 21:30.
Recommended 4-Day Itinerary
- Day 1: San Telmo (market, fair if Sunday), La Boca (Caminito), parrilla dinner.
- Day 2: Recoleta (cemetery, Fine Arts Museum), Plaza Francia, coffee at La Biela.
- Day 3: Palermo (Soho, Bosques, Japanese Garden), design shopping, milonga night.
- Day 4: Puerto Madero, Ecological Reserve, Plaza de Mayo, Casa Rosada, historic cafe (Cafe Tortoni, since 1858).